Treasures of the East/Persia

Persia — “Tur LAnp oF THE SUN AND THE Lion,

THE Roses AND NIGHTINGALES”

The journey from Baghdad into Tihran, the capital of Persia, is now done comfortably by motor in three to four days.

Persia, for a surprising majority in America, suggests the Persian rug, the Persian Cat, and "Omar Khayyam. Before learning the English language and coming from the Orient to America, my poor imagination was this — that America was a big factory producing missionaries, because that was the only type of Americans whom I had seen during my childhood, and Chicago suggested a black dot near a blue spot as it looks on the map. But Persia is as large as Germany, France, Italy, and the British Isles combined.

Babylon, Assyria, and Chaldea rose to power in rapid sequence, served their day of world dominion, weakened, and [Page 123]TREASURES OF THE EAST 133

quickly disappeared. Persia, following in their footsteps, elevated southwestern Asia to still higher eminence as the center of civilization and empire, struggled with the Greeks, Romans, Mongols, Arabs, and Turks, disintigrated but maintained its identity through terrific storms of circumstances down to the present day.

Arab conquerors penetrated to the foundations of Persian life. The Mongol and the Turk threatened their very existence, yet their national characteristics always triumphed over their aggressors.

Modern Persia is a vast mountain-ribbed, desert plateau, studded here and there with oases which form ribbons of fertile, green fields fringing the desert at the base of steep mountain slopes from whose snow clad summits comes the life-giving moisture.

Water is the chief concern of the Persian peasant. Wherever he can divert the flow of a mountain stream or build a crude canal from a well or spring, a small portion of the desert becomes a paradise, and he prospers.

It is the desert contrast that has made the Persian poets sing of rose gardens and nightingales. And if many centuries of Persians have labored at the creation of beautiful gardens and the decorations of houses and cities, it is because each city is an oasis separated from every other city by the desert. Hence, the passion for gardens that became long ago a characteristic of Persian life; the house and garden themselves are an oasis in an oasis, and beyond is the wide and the wild desert. Is it surprising that they should cherish such beauty spots and consider them as heaven itself? And that is why the poets have always mentioned their cities and gardens with the best of praise.

Persian decorative art, created by the environment of Persian life, thus became the most distinctive expression of [Page 124]124 TREASURES OF THE EAST

the genius of the people. The various decorative arts reached a high level in Persia during the seventh century.

Leaving Baghdad by the railroad which runs almost to the Persian border, the town of Khanigayn is reached by the second day. Here the automobile would be waiting to take us to Hamadan, some 30 miles distant.

During the first day, we pass through mountains and rolling valleys. We cross many fertile plains and little villages where brown and white oxen may be seen pulling primitive wooden plows. There are swift flowing streams and all kinds of fruit trees. Here we camp.

With the dawn — out again, up and down, through mountains and valleys, we reach the village of Hussein Abad. This part of the plateau is inhabited by the Kurds.

The Kurds are racially quite distinct from the Persians. Like the Arabian dwellers of the desert, the Kurds are nomadic tribes that live on their flocks and by hunting in the mountains and valleys. They have their own tribal costume which is perhaps the most picturesque in all Persia.

Almost always armed to the teeth, these tribesmen look particularly romantic when dashing down the hills on their horses — the gleam of a rifle slung over a shoulder — a flowing purple turban loosely bound around a huge, black felt cap —a broad, colorful scarf about the waist half hiding two or even three vests and above which projects the hilt of a dagger and a revolver — baggy trousers — gaily tasseled and embroidered saddle.

The Kurdish women are generally somber in dress but do not hide the beauty of their faces under veils.

It is interesting to watch a Kurdish dance. “Hi, ya, ya, ya, ya—ya’™’, the women sing, emphasizing the first and last syllables. They have an orchestra too, consisting of a big drum, a guitar, violin, a flute, and a six foot, brass trombo[Page 125]TREASURES OF THE EAST 125

horn. Now and then one or more of the players stop for refreshments and then resume hastily with much added zeal. The men and women form in separate lines and with locked arms sway backward and forward in a sort of folk dance.

Hamaddn. At the city of Hamadan, climbing Mount Elwend, we find Queen Esther’s tomb and the Musallah,

Tihrdn — The Square of Amin-us-Sultdn

the renowned Median Acropolis — the ruins of the palaces of the kings of the Medians and the Persians.

Tihran, the capital of Persia, stands 3,810 feet above sea level at the foot of the Elburz Mountains which rise nearly 13,000 feet. As we approach the capital of Persia we see the increasing trafic on the road — mule and camel caravans, villagers driving strings of laden donkeys to market.

So sudden is the transition from sun-baked desert to city, that you feel as if you have suddenly passed into a dream to [Page 126]126 TREASURES OF THE EAST

behold the most surprising of gateways, a great multicolored facade overlayed with a gay mosaic of glistening tiles and topped with numerous minarets ornamented in the same fashion.

Although occupying an ancient site, Tihran is a very modern city. Entering within the city walls, the stranger is impressed by the wide, shaded avenues with their bordering high walls, inclosing beautiful gardens and palatial residences.

For the most part the buildings, the homes of the middle classes, are of one or two stories, flat roofed, many of them plastered white or pale blue or pink, and with projecting balconies. At intervals rows of slim poplars project above the street walls, and through a stately gateway one gets a glimpse of the choicest of flowers and shrubbery, spraying fountains, and the brick or stucco residence of some Persian prince or noble.

The northern portion of the city is modern and uptodate. The southern part is an undisturbed bit of old Persia— the great bazaars, the narrow, twisting streets, and the dry mud house walls.

The city centers around a large public plaza, “The Maidan-i-Toop-Khaneh” (The Artillery Square), a public park. Six important avenues lead through beautiful arched gateways from this enclosure. “Khiaban-i-Lalehzar” (Tulip Field Avenue), “Khiaban-i-Almassieh” (Avenue of Diamonds), and others are named after the former Shahs and ministers.

The palace of the Shah, the government state departments and the royal college are located within the ancient citadel. The Shah’s palace is a great treasure by itself. One enters it from the Khiaban-i-Almassieh (the Avenue of Diamonds), and passes across the gardens with long black pines, flower beds with roses, beautiful flowers, and silvery rills [Page 127]TREASURES OF THE EAST 127

gurgling into a lake. Nightingales twitter in the trees. Shining, brilliantly painted buildings rise on every side. Reaching the main entrance, you come to the great staircase leading to the state departments. The walls are decorated with millions of tiny bits of mirror set in white plaster,

Tihradn — Artillery Square

glittering like diamonds. The rugs and carpets are of the choicest of Persian looms.

The guide will usher you into the Diamond Room. The walls and the roof are all made of mirrors. There are plenty of silk curtains with gold and blue decorations. All one side of the room contains valuable jewels and gold. The carpets are of silk, the chairs of gold. There are fifty golden chairs. The backs, arms, and legs of the chairs are studded with pearls, turquoise, rubies, and emeralds worth about $500,000. [Page 128]128 TREASURES OF THE EAST

The peacock Throne is the size of a massive bed and has seven legs. It is an alabaster throne studded with precious stones and gold. The two steps, side, and legs sparkle with jewels. The raised back is a mass of gems, with a scintillating circular star on the top, and two peacocks on either side. It is the most costly throne in the entire world, valued at about $30,000,000. Even the pillows on which the Shah reclines are entirely covered with genuine pearls.

The coronation of His Highness Reza Shah Pahlawi took place here on April 25, 1926.

Mosques are numerous in Tihran. The finest is MasjidiSepahsalar. The great Maidan-i-Mashk (Drill Square), a 40 acre military parade field, is in the middle of the city, and is one of the largest inclosures of its kind in the world. At present it is used chiefly as a race course and as a splendid landing field for airplanes.

The old Persian bazaars are very interesting. The native groceries exhibit almost the entire stock at the wide entrance of their little shops, where the passer-by can bargain with the proprietor without entering.

The green grocer, also, has on display his entire assortments of vegetables and fruits, which he has grouped with natural art in a beautiful harmony of color.

Khiaban-i-Lalehzar (The Tulip Field Avenue) is Tihran’s Fifth Avenue and the pride of the inhabitants. In the evening this street is thronged with promenaders.

The street life suggests a thrilling carnival to the Occidental eye. The pop corn and peanut venders are there. The man pushing the red and yellow perambulator has rose-flavored ice cream to sell, and the gentleman busily fanning the little charcoal brazier is selling slices of hot boiled sugar beets and potatoes.

Persian bread is prepared in the large ovens of public [Page 129]TREASURES OF THE EAST 129

bakeries, the dough being spread on huge mounds of red-hot pebbles. Instead of being baked in loaves, it is made in thin, crisp, delicious sheets. A wandering magician performs his

Ahmed Shah — Boy King, the Last of the Kadjar Dynasty

amazing stunts at one corner and at the next, a professional story-teller is in the center of an interested crowd.

The bazaars present a charming interest to American and European travelers. Here a large part of the city’s trade is [Page 130]130 TREASURES OF THE EAST

carried on in what might be described as one immense, primitive department store. Under low, vaulted stone or brick roofs covering many acres of territory, the leading Persian merchants and craftsmen not only sell their goods, but manufacture many products as well.

More than 25 miles of narrow, arched passageways wind and twist past thousands of small shops from 6 to 20 feet square, set in the flanking walls.

Here and there archways in the wall open to Caravanserais (Inns), which are large country yards surrounded by arcades and warerooms, where camel and donkey caravans can be loaded and unloaded, and the goods safely stored.

On a busy afternoon the bazaar is cramped with a hurrying, shoving crowd in which donkeys, camels, horsemen, and pedestrians mingle in a mass; and when a reckless ‘“Droshkeh” (Drosky) carriage or wagon driver tries to force his way along with shouts of “Khabar Dar! Khabar Dar!” (Careful! careful!), often there is a mad rush of the crowd to flatten itself against the walls.

Dealers in different commodities, like the bazaars of other Oriental countries, have grouped themselves in separate quarters, but each merchant has his own little shop, where he sits on the elevated floor beside his show case, or exhibits his goods from behind a counter.

The customer makes his purchases standing in the street, and the process is somewhat exciting for often prices cannot be agreed upon even after long bargaining.

Individual initiative and skilled hand production still prevail in Persian industry. Sections of the bazaar are occupied by the master craftsmen who are experts in gold and silverwork, unique engraved copper and brass wares, rug weaving, and other native products,—all are exceedingly interesting.

Not all Oriental rugs are Persian. But it is the Persian [Page 131]

Weavers of the Persian Rug [Page 132]132 TREASURES OF THE EAST

rug and carpet that is the finest in the world. Every rug is known by the name of the city or province in which it was made, each district having had for centuries its favorite color and design. Thus we say, this rug is Shiraz, Isfahan, Kashan, Kerman, Hamadan, and so on, referring to the city wherein it was made, or, like Khorassan, the province.

In flowers, and perfumes extracted from them, especially the attar of roses, no country in the world can compare with Persia for beauty, fragrance, and abundance.

THE PERSIAN PEOPLE. In physical appearance, the Persians have black or brown eyes, a high forehead, an aquiline nose, a developed chin, and in color present every variety from the dark Indian to the light olive of the colder regions. The men are of medium height, strong, robust, and fond of exercise.

Many townsmen are adopting European garments, but retain the “Kolah” (black fur cap). The clergymen wear turbans and flowing robes similar to those of other Oriental countries. The green turban is a sign of nobility, indicating that the gentleman is from the descendants of the prophet. The Persian women wear the “Yashmak” (veil) and the “Chader” (enveloping garment) for out of doors.

Generally speaking, the noble Persian is the most agreeable person in existence. He is interested chiefly in his family and his garden. He may collect rugs or valuable manuscripts. He is very polite, and has the art of speech, knowing how to address and converse with individuals of different classes. He is fond of society—so fond of it that he expects callers to remain at least an hour to eat sweetmeats and drink tea, even if the business of the call could be done in a few minutes.

The leisurely mode of existence in the house of the average Persian is very delightful. There is a serenity in the [Page 133]TREASURES OF THE EAST 133

Persian life which has long been unknown in the Occident.

In short, the Persians are very hospitable. They still entertain the guest in the manner of a vanished age—when time did not count, when life could be lived peacefully and with great dignity. To have been welcomed among them is to have the happiest memories of many charming and perfect hosts, especially among the Persian Baha'is, who have no prejudice of religion, race, or nationality.

As to the matter of education, formerly any woman or girl who sought learning was despised and considered immoral. But through the influence of the Baha'i teachings that has made education compulsory for boys and girls, Persia now is enjoying the fruit of knowledge and has many schools.

The Persian language is the most celebrated of all the Oriental tongues for beauty and melody, and, like the Arabic, is written from the right to the left.

PERSIAN APARTMENTS. The great mass of the Tihran population lives in apartment houses. The typical apartment house is of one story brick or stone construction built around a court, in the center of which is usually a pond of water.

The rooms, or apartments, all open upon the central court. The single street structure is an arched passageway into the courtyard. A family may occupy one whole side or a single room.

Even in these humble dwellings, however, the Persian’s artistic sense and love of natural beauty assert themselves, for almost always there are potted plants and carefully tended flower beds in the sunny area of the court.

The residences of the wealthy class are indeed very wonderful. Ata distance they convey the impression of splendor and beauty. With white columns and artistic decorations [Page 134]134 TREASURES OF THE EAST

in the midst of stately gardens they stand as inviting monuments.

Rugs cover the floors, the chairs, the sofas, the walls, the balconies, the stairs, and the tables in most of the houses of Tihran.

As in most other Oriental countries, the shoes are removed upon entering the rooms; and in the majority of houses chairs are seldom used. They sit on rugs or the “Mandar”, a sort of mattress with high cushions against the wall to support the back.

“Chdy-Khdnah’’, the tea house or shop, to the Persian is the same as the coffee-shop to the Arab. It is their political, democratic center and social club. How strange it is. These tea shops are everywhere in Persia, and the coffee-houses are everywhere in Arabian and Turkish countries, but not one like them exists in all the Occident.

The tea house, whether it is the humblest or the greatest establishment, always possesses those unfailing essentials: namely, a big, brass Russian Samovar, dainty crystal tea glasses, bright colored saucers, tiny silver spoons, a “Kalyan” (Narghile) or water pipe, and a genial atmosphere.

In a Persian tea party out-of-doors, everybody carries something,—one the charcoal, one a teapot, one the sugar, another the Samovar. Having selected the spot for the social hour, the women get busy and prepare the tea and the Kalyan.

After seeing Tihran, we prepare to see other places and visit some of the chief cities of the land.

Nur (the City of Light) is a little city near Tihran, and is very significant because it was the birthplace of the great Baha’u’llah on November 12, 1817. His son, "Abdul Baha, was born in Tihran on May 23, 1844.

Shah ’Abdw'l’ Azim. A railroad line runs from Tihran [Page 135]TREASURES OF THE EAST 137

five and a half miles across the ruins of an ancient city, Ray or Rhagez, to the village of Shah “Abdu’l’ Azim, the seat of a famous golden-domed shrine which attracts great crowds of people on every holiday.

Ancient Ray was the capital of many dynasties, the birthplace of Harun-ur-Rashid and the mother of Zoroaster.

THE TOWER OF SILENCE. To the northwest of Ray, the Zoroastrian Tower of Silence stands. On this circular, whitewashed tower, which is about 50 feet in diameter and 30 feet high, the Zoroastrians expose the bodies of their dead to the carnivorous birds and the weather.

DEMAWEND. This is the name of Persia's highest mountain peak. It rises 22,000 to 24,000 feet above sea level, and is 45 miles northeast of Tihran. To ascend it requires at least 10 hours of hard climbing.

Qazvin. A day’s run from Tihran northward brings us to Qazvin, which is famous for its tiled gateway and mosque. No other mosque in all northern Persia is equal to it. Here was the home town of Qurratu’layn, Persia’s greatest woman, in poetry, the first world suffragist and martyr.

Kashan. Two hundred miles south of Tihran is the city of Kashan. The province of Khorassan is noted for bravery and courage, the city of Kashan was noted for cowardice. It has been said that in a war between Persia and Russia, the regiment of Kashan fled from the battlefield with such startling speed that in one day they covered a distance of three days. In another battle, the Shah instructed his army commander to place a Kashan regiment in the first line of the battlefield. At nightfall, when the clashing armies stopped firing, the Shah inquired, “Did any of the Kashan troops run away, Commander?” [Page 136]136 TREASURES OF THE EAST

Commander: “No. Not one of them ran away, Your Majesty!”

“Was not that wonderful?” asked the Shah.

Commander: “Yes, indeed, very remarkable. We as signed them to the first line. They stood in their places all day long. They did not make any move. And they are still standing stiff there, because all of them are dead. They died on account of fear.”

But Kashan was also reputed as being the home of the Wise Men of the East who set out for Bethlehem. It is also noted for its rugs.

Isfahan. From Kashan southward to Isfahan is a distance of 100 miles. On the way we stop at the “Manzil” (road house or inn) at the village Gabrabad. Inside the road house we find a large room with a wide platform seat, covered with rugs and lounging occupants, skirting the edge of the room.

The innkeeper, who can be recognized by his polite manner of welcome, stands near the Samovar. The lunch consists of bread, tea, “Mast” (a thick buttermilk), and very sweet melon—an ideal refreshing meal in hot weather.

Isfahan’s interesting places are its turquoise-domed mosque, built by Shah “Abbas, and the Maidan-i-Shah, the square or field where the Shah and his statesmen used to compete in polo and feats of horsemanship. The city also is noted for its gardens and rugs.

Three hundred miles south of Isfahan is the city of Shiraz. Three famous historical sites lie on the caravan route,—Pasargadoe, the tomb of Cyrus the Great; Naksh-eRustam, where the tremendous tombs of the kings are cut in the face of a great cliff; and Persopolis, with its lofty, slender columns. These stately palaces of Darius, Xerxes, and Artaxerxes, once wonders of the world, can still be [Page 137]TREASURES OF THE EAST 137

clearly distinguished; forsaken, but remarkably impressive. These ruins tell the story how they were destroyed in that devastating bonfire set by the torch of Alexander the Great ina fit of drunken celebration of victory.

Shirdz. After crossing the mountains and barren desert, the first sight of this wonderful city will stir the soul to praise the Glory of God by saying, “Ya Baha’wllah! Ya Rabbi-el“Alla!” O Glory of God! O my Supreme Lord! The very blue-violet hills, its rows of charming cypress trees, and the turquois domes of its mosques seem to reflect the paradise of heaven.

Coming through the Quran Gate into the city from the north, many dark cypress and mosques with their high domes and slender minarets loom before the eyes. The city also is noted for its magnificent gardens and rugs.

Here is the tomb of Hafiz, the best loved poet in Persia. Here is the center of learning, and the birthplace of the Bab who was born on October 20, 1819. The Bab was the herald of the Baha'i movement and the forerunner of the great Baha’u'llah. He was martyred in the city of Tabriz.

From Shiraz to Busher on the Persian Gulf is little more than a hundred miles distance.

THE PERSIAN GARDEN. Of all the interesting sights in Persia, no doubt, the traveler would be most impressed by the Persian gardens. To them, even the houses seem accessory. Therefore, nobody, Persian or foreigner, refers to his house as a house; it is a “garden”. The word used for a dwelling place is “Bagh” (garden); in this fashion are named even the palaces of the Shahs, such as the Palace “Gulistan” (the Garden of Roses), “Bagh-i-Takht” (the Garden of the Throne), “Ridvan” (the Garden of Roses).

Here I wish to sketch briefly the general and favorable

design which appears in each of Persia’s great cities. [Page 138]qvg ay) fo uosiig ay? ‘Z1ugp J, — vIssag

[Page 139]TREASURES OF THE EAST : 139

It is the descending terrace plan; there may be two or ten terraces, with water running constantly through them, level to level. Often there are fountains at the bottom, and sometimes there is merely a large square pool. Trees are generally arranged to provide a vista from the house down to the end of the successive terraces; and in Shiraz an additional characteristic is the black and beautiful cypress trees. In Tihran and Isfahan the gardens are more likely to depend upon the flowers—above all upon the roses.

In some of the gardens there are so many nightingales that the owners would complain about them. At night they keep them from sleeping. Even in the daytime they sing almost continuously. One of these gardens is called “The Garden of the Thousand Nightingales”. In one of the gardens of Shiraz, the main avenue is well over 300 feet long, with superb cypress trees on both sides, most of them 30 to 40 feet high. There are also double alleys with chinar, poplar, pine, and fruit trees.

At the lower end of the central grass covered lane is a pillared garden house, open, as the Persian name for it ““Chahar Fasl” implies, to the four seasons. At the other end are series of terraces with fountains, pools of water, and beds of flowers. The terrace leads up to a huge tank, sparkling with clear blue-green water, which acts as a doorstep and mirror to a house of a very attractive style of Persian architecture. The name of this garden is “Resht-i-Behesht” (the Envy of Paradise or Heaven).

Another garden in Shiraz is called “the Garden of Forty Colts”, because, it is said, it was formerly so vast that a mare which had been lost was not found until she had reared a herd of forty colts.

Another garden at Isfahan is called the “Chihil Sutun” (the Garden of Forty Columns of Pillars). It is a garden [Page 140]140 TREASURES OF THE EAST

pavilion and throne room where Shah ‘Abbas in 1600 held his royal courts. You would be puzzled when your eyes can see only twenty pillars. But when you ask the Persian guide or companion, he would say, “Oh, you have not counted all. You have to look also in the pool.”

The smaller gardens of the average Persian are also very pleasant. In fact, any Persian, no matter how poor he might be, would cultivate some sort of a garden. Behind their simple exteriors most of the flat stone or dried mud houses of Persian towns have a little garden or courtyard where flowers are artistically cultivated and where, if their owners are lucky, the nightingales would come and sing from time to time.

To see Persia and the Persians at their best one must be there in the early spring, especially the last of the thirteen days of official merrymaking in honor of the “Nau-Ruz”, the Persian New Year’s Day, which falls on the first day of the spring, March 21st. This is a national picnic day when everyone, dressed in the best of garments, goes to the country. Luncheon tents are pitched in some pleasant spot and, amid general gaiety and good will, elaborate dinners of excellent Persian food are served.

From Bushir or Bender Abbas, Persia’s seaport, a steamer can be boarded for India. We pass through the Persian Gulf and cross the Arabian Sea to India’s chief seaport, Bombay.